MilanScent for Fragrance Police
What’s a fragrance trend you wish would disappear forever, and what’s one you hope will make a comeback?
The obsession with performance and longevity needs to go. Perfumes are being overdosed with aroma chemicals just to be loud and long-lasting, and people judge them solely on that. I enjoy strong scents too, but when longevity becomes the main criteria, it ruins creativity. It forces perfumers to create flat, uninspired formulas. Not every DNA is meant to last 24 hours. This trend is toxic and has done real damage to perfumery.
What I’d love to see is a renaissance of white florals. Osmanthus, tuberose - there’s so much untapped potential beyond the usual creamy coconut-vanilla treatments. These are narcotic, expressive flowers that deserve complex, artistic compositions again.
What’s the most underrated fragrance house or perfumer you think deserves more recognition?
Jorum Studio and their perfumer Euan McCall. His work is artistic, emotional, and ahead of its time and still affordable. He’s someone to watch. Also, Meo Fusciuni. His fragrances are so poetic and beautifully crafted, and he deserves far more recognition than he gets.
What could the fragrance community do better to be more inclusive or welcoming?
My experience has been incredibly positive. I’ve met real friends through fragrance - some of the kindest people I know. The community, at its core, is generous and passionate.
If you visit perfumeries today, you’ll notice a lot of really young guys exploring fragrances. Which is nice, But often, it doesn’t feel like genuine passion. It’s the hype, the TikTok buzz, the idea of owning a collection.
But trends pass. The ones who truly care about fragrance will stay.
How do you balance your personal preferences with objectivity when reviewing?
I always try to describe what a fragrance evokes, even if I wouldn’t wear it myself. I treat perfumes like music or art. you can appreciate their beauty without needing to “like” them.
I don’t rate perfumes. I don’t talk about longevity or projection. I talk about mood, emotion and intention. Some scents I admire deeply, even if they don’t suit me. My content is built around that - comparing fragrances to songs, films, characters, because that’s how I understand them.
What’s the most challenging part of creating content about something as intangible as scent?
The process. I’m a perfectionist. Every review I make is layered with storytelling, visuals, metaphors, structure. It takes time, energy, and emotional focus.
But if a perfumer spent months creating something meaningful, it deserves more than a 10-second clip, a first impression and an 8/10 rating. That’s why I do it this way, even if it drains me, because the scent deserves it.
How do you stay authentic when working with brands or receiving PR samples?
If I don’t like a fragrance, I send it back. I ask brands to send sample sets first, and I’ve rejected many offers after checking their concept or smelling their work.
I buy a lot of fragrances with my own money. I’m not in it for the free bottles. And when I do a paid collaboration, it’s only with partners who let me choose the scents myself. That way, it’s always 100% my voice. I could have made different choices and probably quit my day job by now, but I feel like Authenticity is the most valuable asset a content creator can have.
What’s one thing you’d change about the way fragrances are marketed or sold?
The whole “compliment getter” or “panty dropper” narrative has to die. It’s built on insecurity and turns perfume into a gimmick. No scent is going to make someone fall in love with you. That idea is ridiculous.
Fragrances should be marketed like art like films, experiences, emotions.
What’s your take on the role of influencers in shaping fragrance trends? Positive or negative?
Right now, mostly negative. The performance craze, the need for everything to be loud and long-lasting, is driven by influencers who completely miss what fragrance is about. They’ve turned something intimate and artistic into a numbers game. Hopefully, once the hype dies, focus will return to storytelling, nuances and craftsmanship.
Why should or shouldn’t people follow influencer recommendations?
Don’t follow anyone blindly. But if someone’s taste speaks to you and they’ve earned your trust, there’s value in what they recommend.
I have a clear style and people know that. I don’t just say what I like, I talk about what I find meaningful, expressive, or beautifully made. But if you’re looking for a loud, long-lasting compliment getter, I’m the wrong guy to follow.
I’m basically the anti-Jeremy Fragrance.
